Top of the World

This past weekend Ali and I finally went to the Drakensberg Mountains.  Our exhilarating and daring hike took us to the top of the world’s second tallest waterfall, while at times challenging us both physically and mentally…  

But before I continue, I think you should get a short lesson on the Drakensbergs!

Here is some background information:

The Drakensberg (Afrikaans for ‘the Dragon Mountain’) mountains of South Africa or uKhahlamba  (Zulu for ‘the Barrier of Spears’) is a 200-kilometre-long mountainous wonderland and world heritage site. It is the highest mountain range in Southern Africa, rising to 3,482 metres (11,424 ft) in height.  The largest proportion of the Drakensberg area falls in the province of KwaZulu-Natal.

The Drakensberg Mountains, with their awe-inspiring basalt cliffs, snowcapped in winter, tower over riverine bush, lush yellowwood forests and cascading waterfalls, form a massive barrier separating KwaZulu-Natal from the Kingdom of Lesotho

Combining sheer natural beauty with a wealth of biological diversity, this mountainous region has been preserved and venerated for eons since the San people or bushmen roamed these slopes. Tens of thousands of paintings depicting their daily life can be found on the rock faces.  In December 2000, the park received international recognition and was declared KwaZulu-Natal's second World Heritage Site.

The Amphitheatre, part of the Royal Natal National Park, is one of the spectacular geographical features of the Northern  Drakensberg and is widely regarded as one of the most impressive cliff faces on earth.   It is over 5 km in length and has precipitous cliffs rising approximately 1220 metres (4000 ft) along its entire length (the summit being over 3050 metres (10000 ft) above sea level).  Tugela Falls, the world's second tallest waterfall, plunges over 948 metres (3110 ft) from the Amphitheatre's cliff tops.

Our adventure:

We woke up early on Saturday morning.  And when I say early, I mean early by Durban standards – so 4:30am.  It was already getting light outside with the sunrise just minutes away.  We packed our small Hyundai Atos and were on our way.

The drive to the Sentinel Peak car-park took us almost 5 hours.  Along the way the beautiful scenery was ever changing and demonstrated the remarkable diversity of South Africa’s natural landscape.  As we left the ocean and drove into the country-side, we passed through periods of rain and thick fog, which put some doubt into our hopes to climb to the top of Sentinel Peak.  However, as we approached the Northern Drakensbergs, the sky began to clear and the sun came out.

On our way, we also passed through some very poor areas, which were a stark reminder of the way many Africans live outside the big urban centres.

As our tiny Atos began its ascent to the Sentinel Peak car-park, it very quickly became evident to both Ali and I that we completely had the wrong car for this type of drive.  The road trekking up the mountain was a dirt road with many massive rocks along it (likely caused by erosion).  Our Atos’ tiny wheels really struggled, though Ali did an amazing job staying calm and pushing our car to its limit.  I must admit I was quite nervous, though Ali seemed to be enjoying it.

As we ascended further towards Sentinel Peak the breathtaking beauty of the area was quickly revealed to us.  When we finally reached the car-park and registered with security at the entrance of the path, we put on our day-packs and prepared to embark on our 12 kilometre hike to the top of the world.

The weather was absolutely perfect.  There was not a cloud in the sky.  With every step up the mountain we felt a certain sense of wonder, humility and appreciation for being so lucky as to witness this spectacular vista.

There were times when the path became so narrow that I could not help but look at the deep fall below.

I had heard rumors about the impending chain ladders that marked the last and the most strenuous part of the path, but I put it out of my mind for the time being. 

When we finally arrived at the bottom of the first ladder I was speechless.  The chain ladder, approximately 40 metres in height, was hanging vertically along the cliff-face of the peak.  There was a group of people at the bottom waiting for their turn to climb as well as a group of people too freaked out to climb – including one lady who had to have a cigarette to calm her nerves.

At this point I was determined to make it to the top!  I had gotten this far and I wasn’t going back.  Though there was an alternative route to the top, which was longer and more physically challenging, I had made up my mind!!!

So Ali and I had some peanuts, almonds and raisins at the bottom for a quick burst of energy and I quickly got on the ladder!

I must admit there were times along the way when I had to talk to myself to calm myself down: “Keep calm!” “Keep climbing!” “One foot at a time!” “Do not look down!” “Keep going!” “You are almost there!”  I could hear Ali encouraging me and telling me I’m doing great, which gave me a bit of confidence.

Once I got to the top of the first ladder I realized that it wasn’t nearly as bad as I had anticipated.  It was not time to celebrate yet though, as the second ladder, approximately 20 metres in height, was now before us.  Before I could think twice I began going up the second ladder.

Once I made it to the top I felt an amazing sense of self-accomplishment!  As the adrenaline was rushing I could not help but feel extremely proud of having pushed myself to the limit – physically, mentally and emotionally!  It was exhilarating!

From the top of the peak, we had about a kilometre and a half walk along flat surface to the top of Tugela Falls.  The weather here was cooler and the wind was a bit stronger. 

I must admit Tugela Falls itself was a bit disappointing.  Though at the top it formed a few whirlpools of water, the amount of water falling over the cliff was miniscule.

In either case, Ali and I had lunch at the edge of the falls and enjoyed the sunshine among few other hikers who had successfully made it to the top.

It was now time to head back and I must say I was a bit nervous about the ladders.  I had been warned the descent can be much scarier as you often have to look down in order to find your step.  There are spots where the ladder twists and trying to feel your way down with your feet is difficult and time-consuming.

Ali coming down the ladder

Not to brag or anything, but I did not find the way down to be nearly as nerve-wrecking.  I was able to look down and even enjoy the view!  The only challenging part was the fact that wind had picked up in speed.  At times I had to stay still holding on to the ladder waiting for it to calm down a bit.

Ali and I even did a mini-photoshoot!

I feel like I have not used enough praise to describe how I felt about our hike so here I go:  spectacular, breathtaking, extraordinary, stunning, amazing, beautiful, incredible, magnificent.  What a sense of self-accomplishment and personal gratification!!!

On Saturday night we stayed at the Amphitheatre Backpackers and Hostel.  It was a really cool place, and I think “cool” is definitely the right place to describe it.  The people there were very interesting and from all over the world.  We met a man who was originally from France, but was residing on an island off of Mauritius, who had traveled to over 60 countries.  I hope that is me one day!

Amphitheatre Backpackers

The following day we headed back to the Royal Natal for some more hiking.  The drive into the park was fascinating as we passed through some of the rural areas.  We got a small glimpse into how people live and what their everyday life is like.

We decided to hike to Tiger Falls, which was about a two and a half hour hike, consisting of a steady climb and a steep descent.  Thankfully we didn’t do it the other way around or we would have struggled.

We saw Tiger Falls as well as the Cascades and the scenery was absolutely spectacular! 

Ali cooling off underneath Tiger Falls

The Cascades

We also did a short hike to the Bushmen paintings, which was really interesting as well.  As the paintings are protected you are only allowed to go with a guide.

Our guide Elijah showing us the paintings

On the way home Ali and I agreed that I should practice my standard driving skills.  What standard driving skills you ask?  Well I had received a short lesson from Ali the night before, which I must brag was not a complete disaster.  So I managed to drive half of the way back to Durban.  Of course there were a couple (ok quite a few) embarrassing incidents where I stalled the car, could not get going, completely screeched the brakes, or just gave up and let Ali change the gears, but over all Ali says I did very well, and I am choosing to believe her!  Keep in mind that I was not only driving standard for the first time but also driving on the wrong (or as they like to call it here “left”) side of the road!  Yup, I’m talented like that!